THE last time we had an African adventure, in Tanzania two years ago, we stayed at a couple of fabulous lodges and one ‘under canvas’ camp from the Conservation Corporation (CC) Africa.

Now we are in Botswana as guests of the same organisation, which has magically rebranded as ‘&Beyond’. Most of our fellow guests are also on their second, third or even fourth trip with this South African-based company; and everyone agrees that the name change is a bad move.

We loved - and I mean really loved - the CC Africa brand after two magical experiences in South Africa and Tanzania. For us, this name stood for a combination of outstanding luxury travel and African adventure. The good news is that these qualities have survived the name change (if anything, getting better), but I can’t quite bring myself to say that I LOVE ‘&Beyond’!

Arrival

Xudum lies to the southeast of the Moremi Wildlife Reserve, more or less in the middle of the Okavango Delta. To get there, we took a flight from Maun International in a beaten-up Cessna, courtesy of an elderly pilot who flew his plane in a way which reminded me of my grandfather at the wheel of his ancient Mini. What a view he gave us as we flew over one of the most spectacular landscapes on the planet, before landing with the slightest of bumps on a tiny, gravel airstrip.

This airstrip was about an hour’s drive by jeep from Xudum, as the one much closer had been closed due to unusually heavy rains and flooding. Apparently, 2009 saw one of the greatest of the ‘great floods’ which occur every year in the Okavango. It gets one thinking about the effects of climate change on the unique geography of the Delta. I found an interesting article on this subject here.

The jeep stopped at a mudbank where we climbed into a small motor boat that sped us through the Delta to the Xudum Lodge.

Xudum Lodge

The Xudum Lodge is another of those magical places which &Beyond has managed to create across southern Africa. There are no restrictions at all on the local wildlife. Literally anything can come and go as you sit on the terrace (above) watching the Delta slowly roll by, or dine at night under the big African sky. That’s a big part of the magic. The other part is the superb staff who literally do go ‘beyond’ the call of duty to make your stay special. At Xudum, the staff were mainly local Batswana folks, I’m pleased to say, who combined complete professionalism with a great sense of fun.

Home from home

A very short walk behind the main Xudum building was our own lodge (above), where we stayed for five glorious nights. Again, it is completely open. And unlike the terrace and dining area, it is perfectly possible for some big wildlife to come wandering by. One morning, we woke up to the sound of a grumpy-sounding elephant tearing some branches a few feet away. Other people have seen leopards outside their front door. But much more troublesome are the monkeys who hang out in the trees above the buildings, making a tremendous racket, and who are bold enough to venture right into your bedroom if they smell something remotely edible.

The reality is that guests are very safe at Xudum, and you have plenty of time to relax in the gorgeous facilities like this enormous bath (above) or the private plunge pool.

On the water

What makes the Okavango unique as a safari experience is climbing into one of these tiny mokoros (canoes - above) and sailing silently through the reeds to observe the amazing bird life all around (as you can see at the top of this story). Hippos love to wallow in these waters as the hot sun reaches its peak over the Okavango. Much of the time they are just visible by their ears, which means you need to be with rangers - like ours - who know the waters like the backs of their hands, and who can steer the mokoro precisely (and impressively) balancing on the edge by the balls of their feet, with their heels suspended over the water (below).

The Okavango is, especially, a bird lover’s paradise. I found a great site which details all of the known species here.

We Gotta Problem?

If you have been to the &Beyond private game reserves, you have probably been spoiled by the abundance of big cats and other large wildlife. Our experience of the Okavango wasn’t like that. On several mornings, we drove around for hours without seeing much at all. But that doesn’t detract from the experience, because you are soaking in all of the colours and smells of a unique part of the world. It also helps when you have rangers who can explain so much about the Delta as you drive - and cook a wonderful breakfast into the bargain!

We did see quite large herds of elephants - Botswana has many thousands of them - some of whom were not too pleased to see us (above). The protective maternal instinct of the female elephant is one of the most powerful forces in the animal world - just don’t get too close!

After much searching, we did come across one very lazy male lion, who clearly wasn’t in the mood for visitors that day (above).

What a send-off

On our last night in Xudum, we drove out on a late night safari with our two rangers, Dishu and William (above), and went further and further into the  darkness of the Delta. Switching the lights off and just sitting there in the jeep, while the Okavango breathes all around, is an amazing experience. But there was more to come. We drove a little further, to the partially flooded Xudum airstrip, to discover that the entire &Beyond staff had set up a late-night bar for us! We partied with the lads for a couple of hours, knocking back gin & tonics and goodness knows what else, until it was time, very sadly, to head back and prepare for our departure.

The verdict

I would never pick a favourite from my &Beyond experiences, but Xudum is a very special place indeed. And the Batswana people are very special people. What made Xudum unforgettable was the best staff I have ever encountered on any holiday.

How we got there

We travelled on Air Botswana to Maun, then by private plane to Xudum.

Our ratings for Xudum Delta Lodge

1-5 stars

The Lodge

*****

The Staff

*****                                                                                                            

The Experience

*****

Click here and here for more hi-res pictures from Xudum Delta Lodge